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Chapter 5 recreation

entertainment and events

What comes to mind when you think of entertainment on a southern island? What do the islanders look forward to enjoying on the weekends? 
It may be a simple question for the Japanese, who are surrounded by daily entertainment, but surprisingly, entertainment options on southern islands are quite limited.
Even in developed Micronesian islands like Guam and Saipan, weekend entertainment often revolves around beach barbecues. In these peaceful local 
islands with little to no noteworthy incidents, annual events become major highlights.

 ■The Day a Turtle Transforms into a Rabbit

The beautiful islands of Micronesia make you want to sigh, "Ah, if only I could live on such an island." However, a Japanese person who actually lived on one of these islands for several years said, "I'm going back to Japan soon. It's a wonderful island, but I can feel my actions becoming slower day by day living here. I'm not in a hurry anymore. I don't run anymore. And I've gained weight. If I stay here any longer, I won't be able to reintegrate into society," and decided to return home.

Indeed... when you look at the islanders, it seems like "not rushing" and "not running" are fundamental principles, and "gaining weight" is also quite understandable. This is because, although all the girls are slim and beautiful in their teenage years, once they marry and have children, their beauty is buried somewhere, and they put on a lot of weight.

These women, who have become auntie-like, seem concerned about their weight gain (they sigh when they look at the scale), but they don’t engage in exercise or jogging.

However, there comes a day when these sumo wrestler-sized women suddenly start jumping and hopping around. It's the annual village sports day. On this day, young and old alike jump with all their might (or so they think) and sprint as if "the turtle has transformed into a rabbit."

The sports day originated during the Japanese colonial era, and due to this legacy, it is still called "Undokai" in Japanese in Micronesia. The timing and frequency of the event vary by island, but what they all have in common is that it is not a serious competition for points or speed; rather, it is a fun event for everyone to enjoy together.


 ■A Cheerful and Simple Undokai

Every September on Kosrae Island, each village holds a sports day event as part of the "Liberation Day" celebrations. Normally calm and gentle, the people of Kosrae become incredibly enthusiastic on this day.

The main events include volleyball, softball, basketball, sprints, and baton relays, with additional activities like canoe races, tug-of-war, and ladder obstacle races depending on the district. Most of these events are divided by gender and age groups. Recently, the sports day has been shifting towards indoor events held in gymnasiums, but the traditional sports day held in schoolyards remains the most entertaining to watch. While there is a risk of weather interference, the open-air atmosphere greatly enhances the enjoyment of the event.


The Tofol district, the center of the island, hosted the "Micronesia Games" in 1996, bringing together people from all over the Micronesian islands. A splendid gymnasium was built for the occasion. The residents of this district now play basketball indoors, tennis on the courts, and track events on the field. However, in other districts, people still play grass baseball and have foot races in the small schoolyards. When a squall hits, the participants get soaked, and if they fall, they end up covered in mud. Even so, the island's sports day, filled with cheers and laughter, continues throughout the day.
 

In the sports day, all events are contested between "teams," which are called "Ichikumi," "Nikumi," and "Sankumi" in Japanese. This is reminiscent of the old Japanese "Tonarigumi" (neighborhood associations). When the announcer calls out "Ichikumi and Nikumi," the auntie athletes, perhaps to boost their spirits, enter while singing their own cheer songs. The leader of the aunties steps forward and dances energetically. Once the excitement dies down, the competition suddenly starts.

Even though it's a team competition, the participants are all relatives or friends, so when someone makes a mistake, everyone, regardless of team, bursts into laughter and it turns into a big commotion. If a husband participating in baseball makes an error, his wife might rush onto the field to smack his bottom, or if he makes a great play, she might hug and kiss him. It's total chaos.

That's why the most fun part to watch is not the competitions themselves, but the cheering squads enthusiastically encouraging everyone from the sidelines.

The sight of the aunties, each team wearing matching uniforms (red, blue, or pink T-shirts), singing and performing together is truly something. Since these aunties regularly sing in church on Sundays, they are very good at choral singing. They beautifully harmonize Kosraean songs, dividing into parts like a gospel choir. After finishing their songs, they start shouting again, fully engrossed in the cheering competition.

Some even suddenly rush onto the field and bang their umbrellas on the ground. They aren't angry; this is just a Kosraean way of encouraging the athletes (which is why umbrellas sell well as Christmas gifts). Occasionally, an auntie with a physique like Konishiki's appears, shaking her hips as she dances, or even starts running alongside the athletes on the field. The whole scene becomes a grand stage for the enthusiastic aunties. The entire venue feels like it's buzzing with excitement.

Thus, the grand sports festival "Undokai", where people run, jump, and laugh for two days, relieving a year's worth of physical activity and stress, comes to an end. By the way, the prizes for the winners are things like bags of detergent or sugar. In some districts, there are even "cash prizes," but they are cute little amounts like fifty cents or one dollar.

Then, if the day after the sports festival is a Sunday, the aunties go to church with composed expressions, as if nothing had happened, and this time they sing hymns instead of cheer songs, which is quite astonishing. The only thing that indicates the previous day's heated events were not a dream is the schoolyard littered with broken umbrellas and flip-flops, resembling the aftermath of a battle. And so, the island returns to its usual peaceful and laid-back days, until the next "Undokai" in September.

 

⇩ Click or tap the photo to see the caption.

 ■The Most Enjoyable Christmas of the Year
In every island, Christmas preparations begin around November. By December, the tiny light decorations adorning hotels and restaurants become even more dazzling.

Christmas in Kosrae, which has fewer hotels and shops, is modest compared to other places in Micronesia, but December 25th features the most splendid event of all. For the people of Kosrae, the most important event of the year is the Christmas ceremony hosted by the village church.

For this day, the women make matching costumes, and new pure white dresses are prepared for the children. They request the dressmaking from relatives or acquaintances one to two months in advance. Given their typically laid-back island nature, the thoroughness of their preparations is almost unbelievable. Their dedication to the Christmas ceremony is truly impressive.

The reason the ceremony is so important in Kosrae lies in the "marching" performed at the church. Dozens of people march in step while singing, each team presenting their own display.

In Kosrae, where there are few forms of entertainment, people are very enthusiastic about participating in events like this. The islanders' competitive spirit during village and team events, along with their devout Christian faith and the powerful influence of the church, contribute to the significance of the Christmas ceremony.

In December, even those who usually lounge around at home watching videos gather every evening in the squares or churches to practice songs and marching. Dozens of people practice stepping in sync while singing, turning at the signal of the leader's bell, and marching straight or crossing paths beautifully.

As the 25th approaches, the practice sessions intensify, sometimes continuing past 11 p.m. The people of the same team (region) practice tirelessly together to ensure they can present the best possible march on the big day.

Regardless of how perfect their march is, there are no rankings, nor are there prizes like at the sports day. Still, people are dedicated. The results of these nightly practice sessions are showcased on Christmas Day.


 ■Candy Rain Ceremony

On Christmas Day, the church is bustling from the morning with women dressed in matching one-piece dresses in pink, light blue, red, white, green, and other colors. The members participating in the march wear matching costumes from head to toe, including hair accessories, dresses, and flip-flops. A lot of money is spent on these outfits.

Around 10 a.m., the marching begins inside the church, starting with the "first group." Led by a leader with a bell, 40 to 60 people enter and perform their march.

The participants, dressed in matching outfits, line up throughout the church, creating shapes like "X" and "M" and swapping places while singing, displaying their "techniques." To our eyes, it might seem like a simple school performance, but in Kosrae, it's cutting-edge!

Every year, they come up with various ideas and put effort into creativity. The main focus is on how to maintain beautiful marching lines without disruption, how much "technique" can be incorporated, and how harmonious they can be during the performance.

In the march, no instruments are used; instead, the Kosraean people excel in acapella singing. Powerful four-part harmonies of bass, tenor, alto, and soprano resonate throughout the church, turning it into a grand choir, much like during Sunday worship.

After finishing their march, each participant exits while scattering candies, chocolates, gum, cookies, and other treats towards the crowded audience, saying "Merry Christmas!" as they go. The candies rain down like a shower, sometimes hitting faces hard enough to sting.

When they spot family or friends in the audience, they target them with a concentrated flurry of candy. Even if they remain silent, candies pile up on their laps. Sweets scatter everywhere from the aisles to under the chairs, causing a frenzy among the children as they scramble to grab them. However, within just 10 seconds, the candies disappear without a trace.

After a break for lunch, the marches continue, and these enjoyable Christmas ceremonies continue until around 4 p.m. December 25th is the most festive, solemn, and enjoyable day of the year in Kosrae.


 ■Christmas on the road

Even the most devout Christians may include those who cannot attend church. These could be individuals who are bedridden due to illness or elderly people with physical limitations. For such individuals, "Hymn deliveries" Christmas begins on December 26th.

Church members and a few choir members visit homes one by one, going around to perform church songs sung during Christmas at church.

Previously, villagers gathered one night to visit a church member who had been hospitalized for a long time due to illness, aiming to uplift their spirits.

The focal member of the gathering said, "The church member in the hospital says he want to hear church hymns. So, we're all going to the hospital together to sing for him." They packed people into their pickup truck. That night, nearly 100 villagers gathered, and an acapella choir was performed at the hospital.

Kosrae is an island that values its elderly population. They show respect and courtesy to their parents and elders. This respect is particularly evident in households where there are church members who are grandfathers or fathers. Even middle-aged men who truly love beer refrain from drinking or smoking in front of their fathers.

As seen in Sunday worship and during Christmas, the village church holds significant influence over the island's society, and Christianity is inseparable from Kosrae Island.

 

⇩ Click or tap the photo to see the caption.

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